Surfing is an inherently dangerous activity, which is why it gives us such a thrill. Not only can we be eaten by sharks and impaled by our surfboards, but we are playing amongst forces that can quite literally crush and drown us. Add a bunch of other surfers to the mix and you’ve got almost unlimited possibilities for disaster.
But mostly in surfing everything is fine. It is one of the few action sports covered by most travel insurance policies and that says a lot. Once we make it through the early phases of learning to surf we get hit by our surfboards less often. We understand where to paddle and how to minimize risk.
There are still a few things we can do to surf safe and have more fun. It starts before you even get to the beach.
1-Stop and observe conditions
Before you paddle out, take a moment to observe the surf conditions. Are there any obvious rips? Can you see wildlife feeding? Look out for birds diving and shoals of fish surfacing. Both could mean sharks are in the vicinity. If it is the first time you’ve surfed a break try asking a local about any hazards. Usually they’ll be friendly if you are. If there is no-one else surfing make sure the conditions are within your skill and strength capabilities. If not, go forth bravely.
2- Rip Currents – Threat and blessing
Rip currents can be a big threat if you don’t know them and at the same time a great pleasure and absolutely harmless if you know them. It’s basically water moving back to the sea, after it got pushed towards the shore in forms of waves, breaking over sandbars when the water gets shallower. These currents, or so-called channels, appear next to breaking waves. The water in this currents might look a bit rippled, untidy and with another water color.
Unexperienced swimmers or surfers often expect them to be safer, due to the fact that the water looks calmer. If you are stuck in a current the water will take you a bit outside and you might not be able to paddle or swim back from this spot. But don´t worry, it will stop and then you will be able to get back to the shore from another position, where the waves are breaking. If you find yourself in a current you need to stay calm, let it happen. Danger occurs if surfers start to panic, jump from their board and try to swim against the current. If you get more experienced in surfing you will be able to use these channels to get to the line-up without fighting against the waves. During Anra surf, surf lessons you can always ask to our experienced instructors who can show you currents, and if you join a new surf spot don´t hesitate to ask another surfer to feel more confident about it.
3- Yourself - Stretch or warm up
It’s very important when you learn to surf to know how to protect yourself. First of all, always start with a warm-up to prepare your body and your muscles for your surf session. Our lessons always start with a complete full-body work out. Whilst surfing or more precisely if you jump or fall from your board: Always protect your head with your arms to prevent to get kissed by your board or your fins! This is an easy but very important rule! Last but not least: always check your surf gear before your surf session. Your leash should be in a good condition and fixed correctly.
4-Wear sun protection
Don’t get fried for the sake of a good time. getting the right amount of sun exposure is tricky and surfers tend to absorb more UV rays than most. If you burn easily or are concerned about developing skin cancers use a quality sunscreen containing zinc and titanium. Alternatively, wear a wetsuit and surf hat.
5-Take note of where you are surfing
After paddling out choose a landmark that you can line yourself up with. Sometimes it is a house, a tree, a pathway leading to the beach. Having a landmark means you can easily notice when you’re drifting. Also, if you do drift, you’ll know how to get to back to where you started.
6- Always hold onto your board
No matter what happens it is almost always best to hold onto your board rather than releasing it and diving under a wave. Letting go of your board is risky for two primary reasons.
Your legrope could break and you’ll have no board
Your board is no longer under your control and could hit someone else, or yourself
Of course there are times when you have no choice but to let go and face the ocean’s impending obliteration. That’s ok. But at a busy break where there are surfers paddling out behind you it’s not. Surfers (myself included) have permanent scars from other people ditching their boards to get under an oncoming set wave.
7-Know yourself
Your development as a surfer depends on taking risks, being resilient in the face of failure and grabbing new challenges when they come. Often we have only a split second to decide whether or not to paddle for a wave. When you’re out of your league you’ll know. Be cautious about pushing yourself too far, especially when you may risk injuring other surfers. Sit further to the side, watch others, catch a few wide ones and gradually make your way to where the action is unfolding. Too many surfers end up with broken boards and bones because they overestimate their ability. Breaking your own bones is fine, but don’t hurt others.
8- The Crowds
If you share your waves with other surfers always be aware of the rules in the water. Priorities exist,
and you can check it in our surf school package . If you have any doubts, you can always ask our Anra Surf School instructors.
Still, some people do not know about these rules, or they don ́t mind or they feel that they have the “right” as a local to take the wave before you. In these cases, we recommend you to forget about your priority and just let it go, in order not to crash with another surfer. The wiser head gives in.